C&C Cage Assembly Guide
Everything you need to build the perfect home for your guinea pig
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Lay everything out on a flat surface and count your pieces before starting.
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| Wire Grids | Black powder-coated wire panels — form the walls of your cage |
| Plastic Connectors | Cross-shaped connectors that click into grids at corners and joins |
| Cable Ties / Zip Ties | Used to reinforce and stabilise every grid join |
| Corflute Base | Pre-cut corrugated plastic sheet that forms the floor tray |
| Plastic Rivets | Secure the folded corners of the corflute base tray |
- Small scissors or side-cutters (to trim cable ties flush)
- Rubber mallet or firm palm pressure (for stubborn connectors)
| Safety Check | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| ✓ Grid spacing is 9×9 squares (each gap ≤ 3.5 cm / 1.4″) | Wider grids can trap your guinea pig — especially babies |
| ✓ Build on a flat, hard floor | Avoids uneven base and wobbly walls |
| ✓ Keep pets and young children away during assembly | Small parts and sharp edges present a hazard |
| ✓ Trim ALL cable tie tails flush immediately after cutting | Sharp tails inside the cage can injure your guinea pig |
| ✓ Double-check all connectors are fully clicked in | Partially clicked connectors fail under pressure |
C&C cage sizes are measured in grids. More space is always better — when in doubt, go one size up!
| Size | Dimensions (cm) | Floor Area (sq m) | Guinea Pigs |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2×3 | 113 × 73 cm | 0.82 | 1 Guinea Pig |
| 2×4 | 143 × 73 cm | 1.04 | 2–3 Guinea Pigs |
| 2×5 | 180 × 73 cm | 1.31 | 4 Guinea Pigs |
2×5 Guinea Pig C&C Cage — 180 × 73 cm | Suits up to 4 Guinea Pigs
- 1Unfold the corflute sheet and lay it flat on the ground in a clear area.
- 2Locate the pre-scored fold lines at the edges — fold the sides upward along these lines to form a shallow tray.
- 3At each corner, fold the small corner flap inward so it sits flush against the side wall.
- 4Push a plastic rivet firmly through the hole at each corner — these lock the sides permanently in place.
- 5Stand back and check the tray is square and level before setting it aside.
- 1Start at a corner — this gives you a stable anchor, especially if building alone.
- 2Take a connector and push the first grid panel firmly into it. You may hear or feel a click — this is correct.
- 3Attach a second connector to the adjacent slot on the same grid panel, ready for the next wall section.
- 4Insert the next grid panel into the open slot of that connector. Continue along each wall until all four walls are complete.
- 5Do a visual check — all connectors should sit flush with no gaps or partially-inserted grids.
🔢 Grids & Connectors Needed Per Size
| Cage Size | Wall Grids | Connectors | Cable Ties |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2×3 | 10 | 20 | 20 |
| 2×4 | 12 | 24 | 24 |
| 2×5 | 14 | 28 | 28 |
- 1Starting at any corner, thread a cable tie through the wire at the point where two grids meet.
- 2Pull the cable tie as tight as possible and click it locked — it should not spin or shift.
- 3Use at least 2 cable ties per join — one near the top and one near the bottom of each join.
- 4Work your way around every join on every wall. Don’t skip any — even connectors that feel solid.
- 5Using sharp scissors or side-cutters, trim all tails flush with the locking head immediately.
- 1Lower the corflute base down into the cage from above.
- 2The corflute base sits neatly inside the grid walls with a small amount of clearance on each end — this makes it easy to lift out for cleaning without disassembling the cage.
- 3Once the base is sitting flat, close the final grid wall using connectors and cable ties as in Steps 2 and 3.
- 4Check the base sits flat and stable with no rocking.
- 5The small clearance at each end is intentional — it allows easy removal for cleaning without pulling the cage apart.
- All connectors are fully clicked in with no loose panels
- Every grid join has at least 2 cable ties — all tails are trimmed flush
- Corflute base sits flat with no gaps at any edge
- No sharp edges, protruding wires, or exposed cable tie tails inside the cage
- Shake test passed — structure is completely rigid
- Grid spacing verified — 9×9 squares with gaps ≤ 3.5 cm
- 1Choose which section of wall you’d like the door — typically on a long side for easy access.
- 2Remove the standard grid panel from that position and replace it with the Bree & Co Swing Door.
- 3Attach the swing door using the same connectors and cable ties as a standard grid panel.
- 4Test the door swings 180 degrees freely — it should latch open against the adjacent wall and close flat.
Fleece Liners (recommended)
- Place a Bree & Co fleece liner flat on the corflute base
- Fleece is reusable, soft, and easy to clean — shake, wash & dry
- Spot-clean daily; full wash 1–2× per week
Essential Accessories
- Fresh water bottle or bowl (change water daily)
- Food bowl — ceramic or heavy plastic is best
- Hidey house or tunnel (guinea pigs need somewhere to hide)
- Hay rack — hay should be available 24/7
2×4 C&C Cage with 2×1 Loft & Fleece Liner
A loft adds a raised second level to your cage, giving your guinea pig extra space to explore and rest. It connects directly into your existing cage walls — no cutting or measuring required. The process is very similar to assembling the main cage.
2×4 C&C Cage with 2×1 Loft & Ramp — Shop Loft Add-ons →
📦 What You’ll Need for the Loft
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Wire Grids | Loft floor panels and walls |
| Plastic Connectors | Connect the loft grids into the existing cage wall grids |
| Cable Ties | Secure all loft joins firmly |
| Corflute Loft Base | Pre-cut corflute base — same as the main cage base but with a cut-out on either side for the ramp |
| Ramp | Slides into the slot between the cage floor and loft base — carpet grip already attached |
Loft Step 1 — Choose Your Loft Position
- 1Decide which end of the cage you want the loft to be at.
- 2The loft connects directly into your existing cage walls — no extra support pieces are needed.
- 3Decide which side you would like the ramp on — left or right. The corflute loft base has a cut-out on both sides so you can choose after assembly.
Loft Step 2 — Flip the Connectors on the Existing Walls
- 1On the existing cage wall grids where the loft will sit, locate the connectors already in place.
- 2Flip these connectors around so that the open slots face upward — this allows the loft grid panels to click in on top of the existing walls.
- 3Work along the back wall and both side walls where the loft will connect.
- 4Make sure all flipped connectors are fully seated and secure before moving on.
Loft Step 3 — Build the Loft Floor Panels
This step is the same as Step 2 of the main cage assembly — connecting grids together to form the loft floor.
- 1Start at a corner and push the first loft grid panel firmly into the upward-facing connector on the existing cage wall.
- 2Continue connecting grid panels across the loft area until the full loft floor frame is in place.
- 3Secure every join with cable ties — at least 2 per join, trimmed flush.
- 4Do a visual check — all connectors should sit flush with no gaps or partially-inserted grids.
Loft Step 4 — Assemble the Corflute Loft Base
This step is the same as Step 1 of the main cage assembly.
- 1Unfold the corflute loft base and lay it flat on the ground.
- 2Fold the sides upward along the pre-scored fold lines to form a shallow tray — exactly the same as the main cage base.
- 3Fold the small corner flaps inward and push the plastic rivets through to lock the corners in place.
- 4Note the cut-outs on either side of the loft base — these are for the ramp. Choose which side you want the ramp on before placing the base.
- 5Lower the corflute loft base down into the loft frame from above — the same way as the main cage base.
- 6The base sits neatly with a small clearance on each end, making it easy to remove for cleaning.
Loft Step 5 — Attach the Ramp
- 1Position the ramp at the cut-out side of the loft base you have chosen.
- 2Slide the ramp into the slot between the cage floor and the loft base — the ramp sits securely in place without any additional fixing required.
- 3Give the ramp a gentle press to confirm it is sitting firmly in the slot and is not rocking.
🏠 Loft Final Check
- All loft connectors are fully clicked in and cable tied
- Loft floor grids are solid with no flex when pressed
- Corflute loft base sits flat and stable
- Ramp cut-out aligns correctly with the loft base opening
- No sharp edges, protruding wires, or exposed cable tie tails inside the loft
| Task | How Often | How To |
|---|---|---|
| Spot clean base | Daily | Remove soiled bedding, droppings, and leftover food |
| Full bedding change | Weekly | Remove all bedding, wipe corflute with pet-safe cleaner, replace |
| Wash fleece liners | 1–2× per week | Cold machine wash; no fabric softener; air dry or low tumble |
| Wipe grid panels | Fortnightly | Damp cloth with diluted white vinegar or pet-safe spray |
| Check cable ties | Monthly | Look for any snapped, loosened, or chewed ties — replace immediately |
| Full deep clean | Monthly | Lift out corflute base, scrub with warm soapy water, rinse and dry fully before replacing |
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Cage walls wobble | Not enough cable ties, or connectors not fully clicked | Add 2 more cable ties per loose join; re-seat all connectors firmly |
| Corflute base rocks | Base not sitting flat or floor surface is uneven | Check floor is level; adjust base position until it sits flat |
| Guinea pig chewing corflute | Boredom or accessible corflute edge | Add more enrichment; use edge protector strips on exposed corflute edges |
| Loft floor flexes / sags | Not enough cable ties anchoring to walls | Add cable ties every 10 cm along each wall attachment point |
| Ramp feels loose | Ramp not fully seated in the slot | Remove and re-slide the ramp firmly into the slot between the cage floor and loft base |